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  •  How do I cut a 'steel' door (6+ / 0-)

    To adjust the height?

    I am to install three of these in an older house and garage, with the appropriate odd dimensions found in such.

    The 'steel' doors are the cheap kind that have a steel skin and foam inside, sold as framed kits by Lowe's.

       I can add a strip of wood if too short, no big problem, but I know at least two are too long...

        I am thinking of using a slow jigsaw with new blades and carefully done, followed by a grinder, again not heating it so as to destroy more paint/coating than necessary, followed by ospho(phosphoric acid rust primer) and 'regular' zinc primer and paint.  especially at the bottom of the door.

       Tape, several layers or even a strip of sheet metal over tape so as to not scratch  them up additionally, and  cover and vacuum the steel chips and dust= otherwise sure to rust.

    I'll probably replace these sometime later with better ones, too much to do to get finicky stylewise now, I need doors that are strongish right now cheap and quick. ish..

    I also see commercial steel doors with steel frames available for more money, instead I think I will make a simple strip of sheet steel to reinforce the lock strike area with long screws as well as solidify the framing behind the lockstrike area. Drywall is fragged there anyway.

    Anybody ever do this?

    This machine kills Fascists.

    by KenBee on Sat May 04, 2013 at 01:37:19 PM PDT

    •  I have a skill saw (4+ / 0-)

      that is made to cut still.
      It's a great tool.
      Maybe you can rent one.

      the only down fall with the saw is the blades are 40 bucks.
      I paid 300 bucks for it.
      I bought a Milwaukee

      http://www.northerntool.com/...

      •  well, that is the alternative (3+ / 0-)
        Recommended by:
        RiveroftheWest, eeff, boatgeek

        but long ago I went to slower quieter more mellow tools like variable speed sanders and jigsaws.

        A grit cutting blade would be fast, we'll see how it goes..a grit blade can cut slowly and not generate a lot of heat, but that's the mellower version of gettin it done.

        clamp a guide, tape and thicker maybe for the grit to not get thru, cover the door, the dam grit goes everywhere with a grit blade. A big enough blade can go thru both sides at once, again it can wander, you just cannot force a grit blade any faster than it wants to go.

        and you can easily go too fast with any blade, but especially a grit blade will bend and start to take a different line.
        also a jigsaw can easily go awry, but usually it's helped by poor cord management or being out of position and in a hurry.

        setup and attitude are necessary whatever one does.

        thanks...I'll look again for sheet metal blades too.

        This machine kills Fascists.

        by KenBee on Sat May 04, 2013 at 09:26:12 PM PDT

        [ Parent ]

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