Prologue: This special supplement follows on the proverbial heals of yesterday's Canyonlands National Park tour. (Were you on the tour? I mean, did you get a chance to read along, as it were? Hope so, because its explanation and survey tells quite a lot about the terrain you'll be tramping over if you decide to do more than the usual rim tour and tourist stuff when visiting the park.) Let me also say there was such a rousing and surprising interest in Zion National Park's tour outlining the details of the difficult Subway I thought I had better come up with something easier, as a recommendation, for DKos community readers interested in Colorado Plateau hiking. Since the community is now familiar with Canyonlands, at least those who read yesterday's diary, I figured two somewhat easy hiking tours (an explanation thereof) is called for. . .with the implicit understanding somewhat infers canyon country hiking always requires common sense and a bit of route finding. No worries. I mean, the following two trail descriptions are given in (I trust) the King's or Queen's simplest and most detailed explanation. Let's see if I live up to this promise. There's also some mystery attached to both tours and one of the mysteries entails finding the setting. You'll soon discover what I'm getting at, other than the preposition.
Here's where we're going on today's special tour, one locale following the other:
Mars? Just kidding. It's a singular setting called the UPHEAVAL DOME.
The next tour takes us to this place. . .FALSE KIVA (you'll soon learn why it earns this odd moniker):
(Continues after the fold.)
Upheaval Dome Particulars: A 2-mile roundtrip appearing on a topographical Canyonlands map: Trails illustrated #210. Warning: this trail is exposed and rather hot and stingy with shade for most of the year. Thus dehydration and the spoils of heat exhaustion (or worse) should caution all hikers headed to this locale. This advice is one of those No kidding! admonishments. Ergo, take plenty of water, wear a hat, sunglasses and smear on sun block. A decent pair of hiking shoes and/or boots also highly recommended. Even hiking poles. Oh, and don't forget snacks and lunch.
Road Directions: Roughly 8.5 miles north of Moab, on Hwy. 191, drive to Deadhorse Point (State Park), taking the Deadhorse Point/Canyonlands turnoff (State Road 131). Go left for about 25 miles, heading toward the park entrance. From there, drive to the Visitor Center (another 6 miles). Upon arrival stop, look, see and pee, if needs must. In other words, go inside and have a look around. Meet the ranger and checkout the information and heed the usual national park advice. Afterward, get back in the vehicle and continue the journey. Before long turn right at the Upheaval Dome sign. Can't miss it. The trailhead is at the end of road. (Incidentally, you will have driven some 5.2 miles from this latest turnoff.) Now get out and tune in to the silence, solemnity and seductive scenery (keeping with the alliteration theme) and get your mind and spirits in gear for a great hike. First, check your provisions, especially water. Ensuing, get hoofing on a winding trail that will take you across an easily traveled Kayenta Sandstone ledges on the fringe of the Upheaval Dome. And did you remember to bring your photographic or video gear along? Hope so.
Just about a few minutes from the trailhead, and maybe 75 or so feet, there is a prominent junction with the Syncline Loop Trail. This part of the trail splits off both to the right and left, meaning it circumnavigates the famed Upheaval Dome impression. It then continues ahead on the Overlook Trail.
Note how the trail to the dome follows a gentle grade. There's soon another junction ahead, which is about .5 miles (from the trailhead). The setting you're looking for is straight ahead and just under 100 feet away. To the left, there is a .5-mile trail that leads along the rim to another overlook.
Hint: It's worth taking this spur given its better view of the sizable crater.
Speaking of which you should be asking yourself a simple and obvious question: What is the origin of this prominent, gaping hole? In other words, what happened here long ago and made such a deep impression?
Well, since you asked. . .here's an answer: The Upheaval Dome has captivated the interest of geologists and laymen alike for many years. (In other words, it's a puzzle that has yet to be solved with any final resolution!) Its distinctive crater was formed millions of years ago and has been hewn by erosion. This process is what stripped off overlying layers, whose net result now showcase an engaging, circular setting of “upturned” sedimentary rocks. Moreover, the facade has been finely weathered in a concentric pattern contrasting from an inner core of older Permian Period (from the Paleozoic Era) formations.
Hence, thus and therefore. . .the Upheaval Dome's unique setting was created by more resistant horizontal layers of older Mesozoic Er rocks rising some 2,000 feet above the canyon scrimshaw carved by the Green and Colorado rivers. Both denote the combined architects of Canyonlands National Park layout.
And here is what awaits you when you get there:
This higher view from a spaceship or something puts everything into a much better prospective:
So, what is the conundrum about this singular crater? Well, let me address the question with another, and more, pivotal question: What caused this regional disturbance, whose stencil appears in an otherwise flat or gently folded terrain of varying rock formations?
What do you think? I mean, can any of you in the DKos community think of an explanation? Have a think on it and I will narrow the possibilities by spilling the proverbial beans how there are two popular theories geologists consider as likely possibilities for the Upheaval Dome's creation:
This anomaly in Canyonlands’ landscape is likely a so-called “salt dome”; or a meteorite impact.
Meanwhile, let's discuss a bit more about this engaging setting, starting with the unique geology that defines the Upheaval Dome. . .
Interesting Geology Stuff: At the rim, hikers are standing on the Wingate Sandstone. Its wind-blown sand had thickly accumulated some 200 million years ago during the Jurassic (and therefore a prominent period of the Mesozoic Era). The Wingate Formation, which is one of the more prominent accumulated layers throughout Canyonlands, is just below the stream-deposited Kayenta Formation that forms the entire sandstone rim encircling the dome. The rim is here and there cracked by faults and fractures that formed as the rock layer bent backward, thus creating a pronounced doming effect. The rim is also breached on the west side by a fissure leading to the Green River.
More Geology And Conundrum Stuff: Before leaving you with your opinions about what caused this telltale crater I want to offer the DKos community another hint about the ‘salt dome’ origins. Namely, this sector's salt (and, yes, I refer to ordinary table salt) once flowed upward through numerous rock layers. This phase of the process may have bubbled into a salt dome shape and structure.
Then again, what if the Upheaval Dome really is an eroded core of a so-called impact crater? You know, similar, though a lot smaller than Meteor Crater (near Winslow, Arizona, where the the rock group, Eagles were standing on the corner and checking out the shapely scenery in passing). Then again, where are the residue fragments from such an extraterrestrial visitor? Or did the elements of erosion gobble them up? Now do you see why choosing one or the other theory entails more than mere guessing?
Mamma mia! Now THAT's a crater!
One thing for sure about the Upheaval Dome and that is this gaping crater seems to engage minds of hikers who come to its rim and peer down into the distorted layers that core the dome. The chaotic display of multi-colored rocks (i.e., the Chinle's greenish and purple shale mixed with the brownish Moenkopi softer shale and siltstones). Both formations are eroding in the center and practically shout for one’s attention. Like, “Hey tourist dude. . .can you figure out what happened here?”
For now, and for those of you who decide to go on a hiking lark and see what there is to be seen and maybe try and figure out what geologists really aren’t altogether in agreement given the dome’s creation. I mean, these former flat-lying Triassic Period layers were obviously disrupted. Also note how these bleached and lighter-colored rocks exposed inside the crater are the more highly contorted sedimentary and older Permian-age formations and include a mix of the so-called White Rim Sandstone and Organ Rock Shale (Mesozoic Era) formations.
Conclusion, Sort Of: What are my thoughts about the Upheaval Dome's creation? Glad you ask. I am thinking burrowing critters beneath the foundation caused the collapse! Then again, what do I know about geology and a hypothetical impactor from outer space, such as what happened in that other world famous crater, in Arizony?
So, what do you think: Salt formed or caused by a meteor?
Next, here is another Canyonlands hike I am prepared to outline, but with this proviso: I can describe the general vicinity and details, but without total accuracy. There is a peculiar reason for this. Follow me to another somewhat neighboring Canyonlands sector (the Island in the Sky district) to another enigma locale, this time denoting a somewhat human mystery. . .
The So-called False Kiva:
Hiking Particulars: This setting is about 1.6 miles from the starting point. Allow for 1 to 3 hours hiking, depending on one's interests and pace and time to spare). In this vicinity a prominent of view of Canyonlands Candlestick landmark stands silent and serene in the distance. The best time of day to photograph the kiva is late afternoon. Most assuredly upon arriving visitors should wait for the strong skylight to diminish before taking photographs looking outward from the kiva's alcove.
Other Regional Landmarks: Aztec Butte Mesa and Arch Shafer Trail Overlook (near Alcove Spring). Nearby is the graceful Mesa Arch:
Note: This tourist coveted ruins does not appear on "official" maps of the park. The name "False Kiva" also arises from the incertitude about the circle of rocks (i.e., the origin and purpose). Ergo, the reason for the name is whether it really is an authentic kiva. The most famous picture of the setting was taken by Wally Pacholka, entitled A True Image of False Kiva, whose stunning nighttime photograph with the Milky Way in the distant background is easily the most captivating of all False Kiva photographs.
Road Directions: Hwy. 313 leads to the Island in the Sky Canyonlands district and the Grand View Point Road threads its way to the Upheaval Dome Road. To get to the Island, take US Highway 191, then to Utah Highway 313 (10 miles north of Moab or 22 miles south of I-70). From there, drive southwest 22 more miles. Driving time to the visitor center from Moab is roughly 45 minutes. (If in doubt about finding your way to this start point, call (435) 259-4712 Ext. 0)
With these directions in mind, let me also share with you a rather common quote I found on the web (about what you're likely to hear from the rangers at the Visitor Center):
"I soon found out that False Kiva is not the easiest place to find. It's situated in the Island In The Sky section of Canyonlands National Park, about 35 miles from the town of Moab. It's a category II listed archaeological site and is not marked on any maps or guides, nor will you find any signs for the trail. In fact it's almost a secret location. However, if you ask at the park visitor centre the rangers are obliged to give you directions. In my case a young female ranger presented me with a single page summary in a folder for a few minutes and I wasn't allowed to take notes. She didn't say directly but I was left in no doubt that she didn't approve of me visiting the site, especially when I mentioned photography. I was also requested not to divulge it's whereabouts to other people. The details presented were sketchy to say the least. Had I been familiar with the park and the terrain it may have meant more, but I was not, so I knew I wouldn't be able to recall enough detail to get me there. I left the visitor centre with the distinct feeling that the general public are totally discouraged from visiting this site. There is perhaps, good reason for the rangers attitude, as many of the archaeological sites over recent years have been vandalised and treated with disrespect. I was not one of those people however, and can't abide or comprehend what causes any person to commit such an act. It seems photographers around these parts don't always have a good name."
So, given this rather singular testimony let's continue with the next set of directions. You are now back in your vehicle and driving past the Visitor Center, this time headed toward the Grand River Overlook. Look for the Upheaval Dome Road and turn right. Now you are traveling toward the Holeman Spring Canyon Overlook, then beyond to the end of road (White Rock locale).
Get out! I mean, of your vehicle. Now begins the most difficult part of this trek. It's all mental from here, so to say.
You are standing in the Upheaval Dome Road parking lot (first marked waypoint), and searching for an unmarked and discernible trailhead on the opposite side of the road (at the second waypoint). Trust me on this point: I am not being purposely vague as the park ranger responded to the man who asked for directions.
Once you find the pathway. . .and you will eventually find it with the P & P factor (persistence and patience). . .head down trail toward the rim. Stay on this discernible path, for it leads down the side of the canyon fissure. There are loose stones here and there means caution to one's footing. Along this part of the pathway there are abrupt heights here and there. Ergo, if you have a fear of same, maybe you should think of meditating on the rim or doing yoga and not go down below. Acrophobia is not easily dismissed by tricks of the mind when reality is knocking at one's door.
At the end of the moderate descent there is a prominent alcove on the right and just above the pathway. Walk down to a ledge (a bit freaky, but doable for most people). Continue to a copse of scrub trees (pinyon-juniper, if memory serves) and follow a pathway leading up and into the relatively gaping portal.
Assuming you found your way to the mysterious kiva (mysterious, that is, given the sense of its seeming secret location). . .enjoy the view, enjoy the ambience and ponder the past. This kiva, regardless its authenticity, is nonetheless spectacular. And the long, wide view outward is literally to die for.
As always, thoughtful commentary greatly appreciated.
Rich
http://www.nmstarg.com/...
http://www.grandcanyon.org/...
Parting shot:
P. S. In case you haven’t read any or some of the other diary-missives posted on this site, here is a current list you might be interested in reading.
An Archeological Timeline:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Colorado Plateau Human History:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
An Archeological Timeline:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Colorado Plateau Human History:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Zion Canyon (Hiking the Subway):
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Zion Canyon NP:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Geology 101:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Ethnobotany:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Chaco Canyon series:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
http://www.dailykos.com/...
The Colorado Plateau series:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
http://www.dailykos.com/...
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Res Dogs (prologue and chapter series):
http://www.dailykos.com/...
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Bryce Canyon NP:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
The Art of Backpacking:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
George Steck Vintage Glen Canyon film:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
A Companion Narration (for George Steck film):
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Monument Valley Tribal Park:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
The Lost Atlantis (Glen Canyon):
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Glen Canyon-Lake Powell series:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
http://www.dailykos.com/...
http://www.dailykos.com/...
http://www.dailykos.com/...
A Most Surprising Christmas:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
http://www.dailykos.com/...