Welcome again to Saturday Morning Home Repair blogging, where we talk about fixing houses, the things in them that are supposed to work for us, and fixing them up. An ad hoc cadre of building professionals and gifted amateurs attempt to answer questions that arise from readers, and offer encouragement and advice for those inclined to do things for themselves, if they can. We all do a lot of things, collectively, and can probably help out with insights from our vast experience.
Or sometimes, we just gab.
Since there was no diary in the queue and I was awake early, we'll just have to improvise today. (I know CJB has her hands full - no surprise that she didn't get a diary together for today.)
That makes today my "Best Tips" day - which means YOU provide the content. I'll start us off with my opinions about something we've probably all dealt with - caulk - and open the floor. You can jump in and share things you've learned over the years about something we're likely to work with in our DIY efforts, okay? Good, I knew I could count on you!
(And, please take a weekend, any weekend, folks - we have almost no one on the schedule! It's easy, just post a note to LIcenter, who is the Keeper of the Calendar...)
OK, back to some tips on caulk. I've had a little experience with various types over the years, but I'll admit right up front that I'm not up on all the new compounds being used for caulking products today, so if any of you have a favorite new type, please add notes below, and thanks.
Here are some common types of products in use now:
1. Latex. Cheap, simple to use and clean up after, but has a critical flaw for long-term durability - it eventually dries nearly hard and is prone to cracking and pulling away from surfaces. You might find it for 99 cents a tube, but it won't really save you money in the long run. Fine for indoor use, not really up to outdoor longevity, and never use to fill wide gaps. Just... don't.
2. Siliconized Latex. Also cheap, usually twice the price of plain latex, and a much better all-around product. Goes on just as easily and also cleans up with water before it dries, stays flexible much longer than plain latex, and is water resistant. Not as good outdoors as some other products and may yellow after years in the sun, but a good choice for common gap filling, and bonding different surfaces together, like sealing wood and stone at your foundation, but you must buy labels, that is, look for your intended use listed on the tube.
3. Butyl-types. These are maybe less prevalent now, but a rubber-based compound class that has great adhesion and longevity properties even outdoors, very useful for sealing areas prone to water contact and movement of the joint. Here, surface prep is critical, as is proper application, such as backing up gaps with a filler material like foam rope; you want to fill gaps completely and uniformly for best results. Really holds its' shape and sticks to well-prepped surfaces, great for things like roof-to-chimney flashing, a tough spot. Much more expensive than the previous types, but well worth it in troublesome spots.
4. Silicone. (NOT "silicon", that's computer chips!) Silicone types came into vogue thanks to GE and other big companies, who worked to promote their new "miracle" material as a do-all, be-all gap sealer and have been very well adapted to various applications - they are even paintable now (if so listed on the label). Great for bathrooms, sealing around exterior windows, etc. Holds up better than nearly any other types in water-contact or weather exposure places, but requires very important prep, like the absolute requirement that you remove ALL traces of prior applications in places like bathtub and shower, or your new seams won't stick for long. That means careful prep, folks, even the use of a magnifying glass when removing all traces of old silicone caulk! "Ever wonder why you're sealing your bathtub again "so soon"? That's probably why; it doesn't stick well to itself, or to the gunky film that covers all wetted surfaces after a while; I've even gone so far as to use alcohol swabs as a final cleaning prep for such places. That's partly because it doesn't rely on "stickiness" like other caulks, it "bonds and cures" in place, so your "place" has to be 100% to get the best results. Also, silicone is IMHO, a "contaminant"; that is, once you use it somewhere you really can't go back to other types of products - like when I used to paint cars and had to add drops of silicone at times to prevent bubble-peels in the finish, since new coatings would also have to contain it or they would also bubble peel. Or, once you do a seam with it you'll never get latex to stick there - or paint for that matter, like when gapping window trim, where a non-paintable mix won't let you paint the trim you just so carefully caulked in white. Once you go silicone you're pretty much stuck with it, but lots of work for a lasting result makes it worth it in many places. Usually 3-4 times the cost of other types, but then we plan ahead and buy it on sale, right?
Finally, the keys to a good job are: good prep, good products, good prep, good tools, good prep, and did I mention good prep? CLEANING IS ESSENTIAL. You can't seal something covered in dirt, greasy films, previous products, etc. Won't work, won't stick, won't last. That's #1.
Next, good tools. Good scrapers, wire brushes, cleaning pads, cleaning agents, a vacuum perhaps, whatever it takes to make a clean, dry gap before you apply a caulk will help give you longevity. And pay attention to materials; for example wood should be primed before caulking, because wood fibers that absorb any moisture will loosen the grip of caulk, like around exterior window trim - ever wonder why that gap always opens at the bottom of wood framed windows, where the side trim rails meet the sill? That's why; the end grain takes up water unless it's been coated, and if the sill is also uncoated under the rails, damage results. Primer seals the wood grain, helping ensure a lasting bond that stays dry. Here, planning ahead pays off every time; think about your surface materials and what the caulk needs to prevent, and plan how to approach that joint, as well as things like drying times, and you help ensure a better job.
And that caulking gun? If you have the cheap 99 cent blue gun, do yourself a favor and recycle it. A pro caulking gun is heavier, stiffer, has a notched push rod for positive pressure when squeezing the trigger, and comes with handy features like a built-in tip-cutter blade and seal-puncture rod that swings out and back out of the way, so you never have to grab another tool like a knife when you load a new tube - it's all there. Things like that notched push rod let you keep steadier pressure on the tube for a more even "rope" and a smoother finish with less effort. Really. A good gun lasts and last - one of mine is like 20 years old and still works great, so it's a good investment. You will have to keep it clean, of course, but it makes the whole job easier.
Finally, RTFL! (Read The EFFIN Label for you noobs) - and I don't just mean the prep and app notes, but find out what system and products it works best with for best results. And, for those who didn't know, caulk HAS EXPIRATION dates, though it may not be printed on the tube, which means that "Red Devil" brand you bought 2 years ago when it was on sale at 2/$1 is no good now, no matter what you think! If you buy it this year, you need to use it up this year, it will go bad in the tube over time, especially partial tubes! How to keep it long enough to empty the tube? I seal my tip with masking tape, or tape and plastic, but that will only keep for a matter of weeks. Nothing keeps caulks workable for years, it just ain't gonna happen.
I need more coffee so I'll shut up now and open the floor. Sheesh, I didn't intend to write a friggin' LESSON. Oh well, you're worth it folks!
Now, SIGN UP, join in the discussion, and add your own caulking tips, plus TODAY ONLY, try to stump me with a question about caulk. Go ahead, don't be shy, it's probably gonna be easy, I ain't that damn smart...
I hope you all have a happy, safe, healthy and prosperous new year, guys. And may 2015 be better that 2014 ever was...
John