On a lovely spring day, we headed out from Buffalo to visit Broken Heart Rock. It's only a few miles west of town, but it is on the old highway grade - and when I say "Old Highway" I mean abandoned since the 1940s. The new highway veers to the south, affording only the tiniest of glimpses of Broken Heart Rock. But it is there for the few who know about it.
Old Highway 16 in the 1930s
I learned of Broken Heart Rock from Esther McWilliams, author of The Beauty of the Big Horns. She was photographing Tongue River Canyon when I was hiking in and we got into a conversation. No one knew the Big Horns as well as Esther - or loved them as much. She said, "Oh, you have to hike up to Broken Heart Rock. Most people don't even know it's there."
She was right.
If you look carefully, you can see the old road bed -
The rocks in the 1930s photo are to the left.
Forest has reclaimed the steep slopes just below the cliff faces.
After scrambling up a 60-degree slope, the old roadbed is a welcome sight.
The south-facing meadows are dry and warm -
But the north-facing slopes still have a lot of snow.
The rock strata have been turned almost vertical.
Western phlox is already soaking up the springtime sun.
Over a little rise and around a bend -
There is nothing quite so wonderful as to be awestruck in nature.
It had been years since I was last here - and it was magical.
Sunshine, blue skies, and rocks sculpted by a force so much larger than us.
My friend and I danced along the trail.
A tiny rivulet gurgled for a moment before retreating under the rocks.
And, of course, we climbed.
There is healing power in this quiet place.
The pasque flowers speak of rebirth and a new season of life.
We turn around to see the high plains - far below.
It is time to head back.
And when we do get down to the bottom of the mountain -
Broken Heart Rock is almost ready to hide from view again.
Thank you, Esther.
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Esther McWilliams
1925-2010