Prologue: Geesh. . .talk about a busy email bout after the Grand Canyon virtual tour series was posted last week! Well, that's what I get for opening a hiking Pandora's box for our illustrious community. That being said, I decided not to respond individually to all those many requests (i.e., "I'm planning on visiting your 'other office' and I want to do what you suggested by getting my head below the rim. . .can you suggest a trail or two that I might enjoy?") Seriously, the requests have more or less all gone like this, and of course I can't really say what a person may or may not enjoy given a Grand Canyon hiking experience. However, since everything comes down to one's stamina, as well as how much time s/he has to hike, I composed a more or less generic profile of a few hiking trails, a rather detailed description, that may be helpful in a generic sense.
Bragging rights established only after you get out of the canyon (alive, of course.)
Medical Advice...Just In Case: Although this salient information was previously mentioned in the Grand Canyon series posted last weekend, I think it's worthy mentioning the second time: When hiking in the canyon you really want and need to be aware of common ailments that could turn serious, and in some cases, lethal. For example, a medical condition known as hyponatremia. It’s a long word for hikers who experience an electrolyte imbalance. In short, sodium concentration in the serum (blood plasma) is lower than normal. Another way to think about it is how an excess body water entails diluting the serum sodium. Simply not good! A sure sign something’s awry with your body, and caused by dehydration, is an old fashioned cephalalgia. That’s a fancy word for headache. I mention this because those who do understand the benefit of drinking water when a headache comes on, especially at higher elevation levels, tend to drink and not eat.
By the way, do not confuse any of the above with hypoxia, which denotes a pathological condition that deprives an adequate oxygen supply. Sure, hypoxia, in its most general sense, is a threat to people who ascend to high altitude, thus causing altitude sickness. Even if some of you are flat-landers coming from much lower elevations, being on either rim is not a threat to one’s health. I mean, there’s really no need to worry about the danger of high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE, as it’s commonly called), or high altitude cerebral edema (HACE). Consider this little additional talk on health sound medical advice and nothing more. I also think it’s better to be forewarned than not informed about such stuff, don’t you agree?
And that, folks, is what this special supplement is all about, including why I wrote this diary that hopefully will appease most readers. There will also be more matter and less art in this diary (i.e., more chit-chat and fewer photos). Besides, it's better to focus on the trail description and less the spectacular scenery, otherwise you might lose your way!
(Diary continues after the fold)
One of the best times to see and photograph the 'Grand' is at sunset. Sunrise is also spectacular. There's just something about either time of day that tends toward mesmerizing, if not downright spiritual!
So. . .Who's 'Down And Up' For A Hike? Hiking in the Grand Canyon means getting your head below the rim. How far down the trail you go is optional, though the rule of foot here comes down to the point hiking should be based on time of travel, not the distance. In short, you may be able to hike one mile, or five, ten or more miles in terrain you’re more used to, but the Grand Canyon’s mileage is arguably a lot more strenuous by way of comparison. There are also certain factors that must be considered prior to hiking any Grand Canyon trail, even the so-called ‘highways’ that come with mixed ratings (see below).
For instance, the high elevation, the typically dry climate, the steepness of the terrain, and for much of the year the nearly exhaustive temperatures. At the bottom, especially, the temperature increases rather dramatically.
The next factor, of course, is how far down the trail you intend going. Even a mile can be physically demanding for some hikers. The mixed rating aspect means there is a built-in hiker’s clause that says those who are in physical shape are faced with an easier rating for hiking, while those who are not may find the rating more demanding. In other words, a so-called easy trail for some fit hikers may turn out to be strenuous for those who are not in shape. Besides, the truth of the matter is there are no easy trails in the canyon. The other part of this sobering reality has to do with the distance versus time factor. Simply put: the farther down the trail you hike, the more strenuous the hike.
Incidentally, a canyon highway entails a pathway into the canyon used by both hikers and mules. For the latter, these long-eared taxis, so-called, tend to leave copious amounts of trail spinach (yep, that stuff) and long stretches where they pee. Lest it go instead, try walking around these notorious pungent places. It also makes for slippery footing and you definitely don’t want to end up on your bottom, much less pitch forward on your face. If such were to happen, trust me, you’d soon find out who your real friends are, that is, if hiking with others.
Just so you know, dude. . .we don't give way to your kind going up or down the trail. So GET OUTTA THE WAY and do not reach out and pet us or yammer too loudly.
Although some of the following trail information has been discussed in the main part of the text, what follows in this presentation is an overview of the main hiking trails, which can also be considered the highways in or near the village. Namely, the Bright Angel (hereafter, BA) and South Kaibab (hereafter, Kaibab, implying the South Rim side) trails. Other trails, called backcountry or primitive, are not listed, because these trails and the terrain covered are best left for guidebooks specifically geared to hiking. Still, the general information listed here serves as an ideal guideline for hiking anywhere in the Grand Canyon. Bear in mind the common highways, meaning mules also ply the trails, are wide and discernible pathways into the canyon. Backcountry trails require orienteering using topographical maps and a compass, whose routes are often obscured by nebulous terrain and rock slides that tend to disguise the terrain and pathway, as it were. Primitive trails are even more obscure, and often entail what is called bushwhacking when navigating such arguably tough to nearly impossible terrain––no kidding.
Before the general information on the BA and Kaibab, including the North Kaibab Trail on the other side of the river, read this important medical advice before venturing into the canyon. The information is not intended to scare the proverbial pants off you, so much as it is salient advice that makes any hiking adventure more routine, that is, in the sense of safety awareness. Thus, I will play the role of a medic and advise you, like all other visitors, to bring water and snacks on canyon outings. Why? Because this is truly high country, well over a mile-high in the atmosphere, also typically dry. Dehydration and a deficiency in the amount of oxygen reaching the tissues (a condition called hypoxia) is typical. Hence, headaches and dry mouths plague many visitors. The body reacts to such conditions, and being grouchy is a sure symptom they’re not drinking enough water. Who wants a grouch along on a tour, you know?
The cure is to drink copious amounts of water. Why the snacks, both salty and sweet? It helps maintain electrolyte balance (thus staving off the serious effects of hyponatremia). While I’m handing out this supportive advice, you might also consider taking a pair of binoculars on the tour, which is especially ideal for zooming in on the far-off sights.
There is also one other point, now that I think about it, to mention: trail etiquette. For the most part, people who hike the trails here are polite. Thus when headed down-trail, hikers yield to hikers coming up the trail; they yield to mules going in either direction; they are not pushy or rude; they are not loud mouths; they do not leave trash; they do not toss rocks or twigs to see how far such objects will fly and fall; they do tag the rocks, and so on. People just get along and its quite friendly on the trail when hiking. BUT there are rarer sorts that violate some or all of these common sense rules. There are even some cultures that don't understand the etiquette, when hiking, and so they tend to push and shove their way along the trails. Personally, and speaking as an instructor for the Grand Canyon Field Institute, when I see hikers who do not obey these rules, especially those who do not yield when they're supposed to, I sound off. Better to get the point across how to behave, when hiking, than to let such people get away with such bad manners. That's my motto. Let it also be yours if you find anyone, so to say, getting out of line.
Now let’s get started on trail descriptions and give you an idea what each trail offers, including the distance to featured places to stop and rest or maybe use these markers as suggested turnaround points for day hikers.
Trail Tramping On The BA: Rate this trail moderate to strenuous and with this proviso: If you’re in decent shape consider the trail moderate; if not, consider it strenuous. This stipulation also depends on just how far down the trail you intend going. Thus, if you plan to go for a wee walk, as the Scottish folks call it, it’s moderate even if you’re not in fit shape. However, if you plan to really get your head below the rim, say, for a mile or more, you’ll feel each step of the way, and so will your lungs.
Before you leave, study, memorize, and take seriously this sign posted at all trailheads:
Next, consider the typical inner canyon heat from, say, early April through October, and sometimes into early November (especially at the very bottom of the canyon):
If hiking with others, and they tend to think you might be messing with their heads about such stuff, just tell 'em you got this info straight from Rich's mouth. . .
That's me when I tend to forget shaving. . .though methinks my looks also improve given this mugshot. Do you think?
From rim to river, the BA is 10 miles. There are ideal stopping/resting places along the way, which, of course, can be used as guidelines for hikers who decide just how far down the trail to go. Hiking into the canyon is also arguably more difficult for most people, due to the facts the feet and toes take the brunt of exercise, as do the knees, quads (quadriceps), and hips. Hiking up the trail requires muscles in the lower extremities do get a workout, however, it’s the lungs working against gained altitude and the same steepness that tends to wear some folks out. Here’s a tip: a slow and steady pace works best. Going faster than you’re used to breathing under the load of exercise is what tires out hikers. So don’t! I mean, hike out at a clip. Take short resting intervals and avoid longer resting spells. Why? Because muscles tend to cool down and then it’s like starting over once you hit the trail. We also have a quaint saying here: Hikers who sit down (too often) tend to stay down. Resting’s okay, mind you, but not too long. Use common sense as a guideline. Each hiker also has to figure how much or little to tackle at any one time.
The BA is generally shaded for most of the day and provides ample potty stops and so-called watering holes. The water is turned on from spring to fall, but always check first before going into the canyon. Sometimes there is a break in the line, in which case hikers must rely on what each can tote in his or her daypack.
Speaking of water, and despite the availability of watering holes along the trail (again, when water’s available), the recommendation is to always carry at least 2 liters of water, plus snacks (of course). For hotter months, the more water you drink (and snacks to eat), the more comfortable the ride, as it were.
From the rim to the first ‘real’ tunnel, where the Coconino Sandstone layer is met (the third major formation below the rim), it’s a 1-mile jaunt. Many people use the tunnel as a primary turnaround marker. Another .5 miles leads downward and to the first potty station and watering hole.
From there, another 1.5 miles of switchbacks leads to the 3-mile rest stop, which offers only a watering station.
If continuing down trail, another 1.5 miles leads to the mid-canyon oasis, Indian Garden. Both a potty stop and watering hole and lots of shade is available. This is also a stopping place for mule riders headed either to Plateau Point, 1.5 miles from the ‘Garden’ or down canyon to Phantom Ranch. Thus, it’s like a busy crossroad sector, where hikers and ‘dudes’ meet. (Uh. . .Guess who really has an easier time of being in the canyon––hikers or dudes? See below for my answer.)
Indian Garden has a spacious campground for overnight backpackers, as well as picnic tables for both hikers and backpackers. There is also a ranger station and pumping station (which obviously pumps water up to the South Rim). Those fit hikers, called day trippers, planning on a one-day hiking adventure can either return to the rim, or add the 3 miles to and from the Plateau Point viewing area. Thus, a 6-mile return as opposed to a 4.5 mile jaunt.
The riparian (green) setting is Indian Garden and Plateau Point (the chalk-white trail) is beyond.
Remember: exhausting tends to creep up on some hikers, meaning this part of the canyon, and going back to the rim, is nearly straight up. That’s because two-thirds of the elevation gain starts here. No worries, that is, if hikers mentally breakdown the trail into segments. Thus, from Indian Garden to the 3-mile rest stop, thence to the 1.5-mile rest stop, then back to the rim, and there you have it: 1.5 plus 1.5 plus 1.5 for a total of 4.5 miles!
The extra journey to Plateau Point (worth it for those who are in good shape) adds three miles to the total mileage. Just bear in mind the 6 and 6 miles adds up to a long day and a long day's hike! So start early and finish early (if possible).
If considering going allllllllll the way to the bottom, which by the way is not recommended for most day trippers unless planning to stay at Phantom Ranch, the 5.5 miles or so to this other riparian oasis is really not too bad, considering. However, the so-called Devil’s Corkscrew (meaning, the switchbacks leading down and through the basement rocks (the Vishnu Mountain remains) is rather precipitous. Once at the bottom it’s a pleasant and fairly easy jaunt to the river. Here hikers have another choice: hang out at Pipe Creek and eat lunch by the river or continue along the River Trail to either the Silver Bridge or Black Bridge, then cross the river. From there, it’s another half mile or so to the ranch.
If you have reservations, either staying at the canyon or dormitories, which of course entails having meal reservations as well, the exhaustive ten or so miles of hiking will soon be forgotten, once your body is in a state of inertia. Thus, resting, hydrating (always do this), snacking, and of course a decent meal by the end of the day, and a comfortable bed to sleep in. On the other hand, if you are one of the more robust hiker types, you have a long hike ahead of you. . .the finishing segment leading back to the rim. Here, again, you have a choice: either return by the BA or take the shorter, though steeper, other highway back to the top––the Kaibab Trail. Good luck! I mean, by taking your time and having ample water and snacks you’ll make it. Most hikers do. The return by the Kaibab route provides another perspective of the canyon’s inner features. Of course, when hiking into or out of the canyon any trail the perspective is always different. One way is all down hill, so to say, the other way straight up (or it seems to be the case).
Hiking On The South Kaibab Trail: This trail has a strange reputation that needs to be clarified here and now. First, it is the shortest trail leading into the inner canyon. No doubt about it. But short, as an adjective, can be misleading. This is especially the case with this ridge trail.
First, you already know, or should know, there are no easy trails in the canyon; not really. Although the Kaibab Trail is some 7 miles from rim to river, folks, it ain’t easy. It’s steeper in places compared to the BA, which by the way, is a drainage trail, so-called. By this I mean, its pathway leads down and into a major drainage, actually, a fault line, and therefore hikers are ensconced by canyon walls all the way to Indian Garden. The Kaibab Trail, however, follows a ridge line. This means it opens up rather quickly, revealing a generous peripheral view of the canyon, say, around Cedar Ridge (about 2 miles below the rim). This trail is also partially manmade. This means, part of the trail was blasted by dynamite in the 1920s, because this was the route leading to the Black Bridge, which was completed by 1927. It’s the Redwall Formation, the 6th major layer below the rim, that had to be dynamited in places, so that a zigzagging trail could be etched into its sheer facade.
The other, let’s call it, potential peril of this trail is twofold:
the first detriment is the fact the Kaibab offers very little shade, and this is the case especially during the summer months;
the second detriment is the fact there is no available water along its route.
Thus it behooves hikers to tote more than enough water when plying this pathway. Naturally, how much water one has in his or her daypack, plus snacks, depends on how far down the trail one is going. Here is a trail description of benchmarks to keep in mind. . .
About 1.5 miles below the rim is a popular overview called Ooo-Ahhh point. I know, it sounds strange, but someone decided the title of this vista should replicate a common onomatopoeia, you know, a 50-cent word that imitates or suggests the source of the sound that it describes (“chirp,” “meow,” “roar,” and so on). Thus, a usual response for most hikers stopping here is something like, ooooo-ahhhhhhh, and from there a follow-up of other nouns, verbs and adjectives sums up the hiker’s thoughts and feelings.
Another half mile or so is the aforementioned Cedar Ridge. Here the canyon’s peripheral view really opens up. From east to west, and south to north, the view is stunning. There’s a potty stop here, and if planning to return to the rim or continue down canyon, take advantage of these compost toilets.
Hikers have a choice of venturing further out on the crest, with a discernible trail leading to the edge. But if getting one’s head even lower below the rim is the plan, then continue down through the Supai Group Formation another 1.5 miles, which leads to what sounds like an ominous place, Skeleton Point. The only bones found down there are going to be rodents and such, but perhaps at one point some prospector long ago figured it was as far along the trail as he could manage, and so he gave up his last breath at this locale. There’s lots of trail stories like this. Some are even true.
Skelton Point is just above the very steep Redwall. With no protection from the sun, hiking down and through its switchbacks tests not only one’s physical stamina, but also mental. You see, in places the drop-off is quite real. Still, for those hikers who have a fear or apprehension of heights, my suggestion is to become a wall-hugger. This means, staying to the inside of the trail when negotiating such sheer places.
Remember: The long-eared taxis on the trail that ply these two canyon highways always have the right-of-way. When encountering mules on the trails, hikers also must go to the inside of the trail. Why? Because mules are trained to be on the outside. They’re comfortable with it, though I can’t vouch for the dudes on their back. Of course, standing still when the mules pass is mandatory. It’s also permissible to chat with the mules or the riders (well, I like talking to the beasties), but never, ever reach out and touch a mule. Need I explain why?
Before continuing the trail description let me answer a question I posed earlier: Who has an easier time of it, when hiking or riding on the trail? I say it’s hikers. You see, setting a saddle, as it’s called in the business, isn’t as easy as one thinks, that is, when riding a mule into or out of the canyon. You may also notice riders who go all the way to Phantom Ranch are not exactly the loquacious types when pulling into the corral. I mean, they’re not as chatty as they may have been on the way down. They also tend to be somewhat glassy-eyed, and this is the case when the inner canyon temperature is sort of like a sauna tuned up high. In short, they’s plain tuckered out.
Well, so are most hikers, yet it’s not the same kind of exhaustion, much less muscles that are taxed compared to being on a saddle. On the way out, mule riders have to lean the other way––backward––and it’s just as tough going up the trail as it was going down. Some even say it’s tougher. They’re not quite the glassy-eyed dudes as some of them were coming into Phantom Ranch, but the definitely look like their ready to reach level ground as soon as possible.
The other bonus about being a hiker is the fact each gets to decide where to stop and rest. This isn’t the case with dudes. They generally have only one place to stop and get off the mule on either trail. For the BA, it’s Indian Garden, and if continuing to the ranch, that’s the next place to dismount. For the Kaibab, it’s Cedar Ridge. What happens if the dude has, shall we say, an emergency potty stop request? Well, that’s up to the wrangler leading the entourage. He or she must also always help the rider on and off the saddle. And guess what? When on the trail, it’s not exactly like there’s convenient private places to do one’s business. Of course, everyone in the group knows what the stop is for, and like mules that tend to follow the leader whenever one mules decides to relieve itself, human psychology is no different. Hence, wranglers strongly encourage the dudes to maintain ballast control as long as possible before relieving either organ (and I hope I put this matter delicately).
Back on the trail, hikers headed down to the bottom have, as their next stop below the Redwall, the so-called Tipoff. Ah, joy: another rare potty stop. This locale is on the Tonto Platform, and just above the start of the trail segment leading to the inner gorge. The Tonto east-west trail passes through here, which some hikers, and likely backpackers, may vector off toward another canyon route, which of course means a backcountry excursion.
For day hikers, or even those planning to stay at the bottom (of course, having reservations and/or camping permits to do so), the last few miles of the Kaibab is tough and tougher. The trail tends to be steep in places, but the good news the river is closer. This means so is the ranch. By the time the last of the trail once more reaches level ground, which is where the short tunnel leading to the Black Bridge appears, most hikers that are not blown away by the often blast furnace heat of the gorge tend to get invigorated. Well, it’s a fleeting feeling, because legs for most hikers tend to feel a bit like jelly, and feet are quite dear, meaning sensitive. Time to rest!
The smart hiker already plans to spend the night at the ranch or campground (if backpacking). If it’s a long round-trip day hike, however, then the smart thing to do is go rest at the ranch for an hour or so. Take off the boots, hang out by Bright Angel Creek and dangle the feet and legs in its cool water (the same applies to day hikers coming in on the BA), then wait until the hottest part of the day is over before climbing back to the top (well, it feels like climbing to some folks).
Here the option is to return via the Kaibab Trail, but the best idea is to take the longer BA route, yet it’s added 3 miles is just a figure. Actually, it’s wiser to hike out the BA, because from the river to Indian Garden the hike is fairly easy (in a comparative sense of the word, mind you). From there, of course, it is as they say, all uphill from here on! Still, the Kaibab via the BA loop is the best way to go about returning to the rim, either for day trippers or over nighters.
Naturally, those who make it to the bottom and back to the rim have established canyon bragging rights, as trail hounds. It is possible for some hikers to do the entire trip in one day, though easier on the mind and the body to spend a night or two at Phantom Ranch (with advanced reservations, of course) or at the Bright Angel campground (also requiring advanced reservations).
To get there, you have to cross the river either by this bridge, which is the oldest bridge and crossing inside the Grand Canyon:
The Black Bridge (for mules and people)
Or take the Silver Suspension Bridge:
Built in the early 1960s, this bridge is for hikers only. Beneath its structure is also the transcanyon pipeline, which funnels fresh water from the North to the South rims.
If planning to camp out, stop, first, at the campground and select a campsite.
Bright Angel Creek provides a refreshing scene and sound for campers and the riparian (stream-side canopy) provides a welcomed relief from the usual blazing sun.
Phantom Ranch is about a 5-minute walk due north.)
The cantina where everyone tends to gather (and sometimes in swarms!)
Of course, anyone can buy snacks and beverages (including beer and wine), curios, T-shirts (exclusively made for Phantom Ranch), walking sticks, and other gear and supplies relative to hiking and backpacking. However, if planning on a great meal, and the ranch does serve up delectable food (breakfast and dinner only), you'll need reservations to reserve a seat at the time, that is, unless you booked your seat on a long-eared taxi (mule) to the ranch.
If you were here, say, from 1970 (and earlier), you could have lazed about and swam in this makeshift pool:
Still, there's lots of other things to see and do down here at the bottom of the basement (or "deep time," as the geologists call it).
Hiking The North Kaibab Trail: What if you were interested in doing a rim-to-rim hike? Well, you’re in the right sector of the canyon to do just that, because the South Kaibab Trail, like the BA, connects to this trail, the North Kaibab, leading to the North Rim. It’s some 14-miles north from Phantom Ranch, with a midway stop, at Cottonwood Campground, that breaks up the long hike. Up to this point it’s also fairly level. Thus, an easy jaunt (for fit hikers).
About half of the mileage on this 14-mile trail is fairly easy (meaning, mostly level). At Roaring Springs, the switchbacks above may seem to some hikers as though they are climbing a wall.
Some hikers manage the entire route in a day, but of course, a rim-to-rim hike of this magnitude is truly for the most vigorous hiker types. The sensible suggestion is to spend a night at the ranch (or campground) before proceeding. Another tip is to spend another night (if backpacking) at Cottonwood. But a long day hike to the North Rim from Phantom Ranch––for those who spent the night––is doable. It’s just the fact after Cottonwood the climb is verily straight up.
About 6 miles north of Phantom Ranch it is highly recommended hikers stop at this idyllic setting: Ribbon Falls! And, yes, it's perfectly safe to stand beneath the cool curtain of water!
Even at trail’s end, there on the North Rim, there’s still a couple miles to go before reaching civilization. Thus, that other Grand Canyon Village setting, which is much smaller, and more rustic, than the village on the opposing rim. There’s also no shuttle service. One may, however, either call a taxi (shuttle-van), or perhaps planned ahead and parked a vehicle near the trail head. A big recommendation is to spend the night on the North Rim, either camping or the Grand Canyon Lodge. Of course, reservations must first be order. The only other suggestion is to drive some 60 miles to Jacob Lake and spend the night at its decent lodgings or continue to Kanab, Utah or Page (Lake Powell), Arizona, where ample restaurants and lodgings are found.
Before leaving the twin-highway trails leading into and out of the canyon, let me say a word or two about the hike from Phantom Ranch to North Rim: it’s an exceptional view along the way. There’s something about this side of the canyon that is quite unlike the South Rim. I can’t explain it, other than to say or suggest maybe it’s the loftier elevation of the North Rim and peering upward from the bottomland to that high rim country. Hiking from the ranch to Cottonwood, and thence a little way farther to Roaring Springs (where all the purified water is piped to either rim), it’s like walking at the base of ancient mountains (both the Vishnu and Supergroup) and staying at this level until the upper canyon formations begin (at Roaring Springs). Hiking along the rushing cold water of Bright Angel Creek also adds to the ambience. I think for seasoned hikers a rim-to-rim hike, with a planned overnight stay, is one of those rare and relative hikes of a lifetime. Of course, I’m talking about being in the greatest canyon on the planet, so what’s not to like about the picturesque view along the way. True, hiking here is, or can be, quite exhaustive for some hikers, but if one pays attention to the canyon rules (namely, staying hydrated and munching), the experience is exemplary. Personally, and despite the usual chafing, blisters, sore muscles, dry throat and trail dust, it’s still one of the best places to hike. Chafing, like blisters, is also preventable. Thus having the right foot ware and clothing. And here’s another trusted tip to keep in mind: with duct tape, ample water, and typical OTC’s, like Ibuprofen, also known as “vitamin I,” it’s possible to stave off the worst side effects of hiking (the aforementioned blisters and chafing).
Some say the best view is from this, the North Rim. Possibly, the reason has to do with the inner canyon landmarks are closer. Whatever one chooses to think, arguably the vista from this side of the canyon is remarkably different, as in sensational, breathtaking, etc. It's also 1,000 to 2,000 feet higher than the opposing South Rim.
Other Day Trails And Hikes To Consider:There are a couple of day hike possibilities that can also be considered in lieu of (or after) the BA or Kaibab trail (on both sides of the canyon. For instance, hiking part of the Hermit Trail (South Rim). These short day trips are ideal segments of this much longer backcountry trails to the river. To get to this area, ride the West Rim shuttle (when it’s running from spring to fall) or drive the 8 miles to Hermits Rest. From there, walk a dirt road for a few minutes, headed west, which leads to the trailhead. The trails drops 1,400 vertical feet in its 1.3 miles to the Waldron trail junction and is clearly marked. (An alternate route is heading from the Horsethief Tank and hiking to the Hermit Trail. The length is 2 miles, starting from 6,420 feet and dropping to 5,200 feet.) From there, the Waldron trail (which comes in from the left (the south) turns right (north) and proceeds another third of a mile to the Dripping Springs/Hermit Trail junction. (The Dripping Springs segment, which branches off the Hermit Trail at the head of Hermit Gorge is a distance of 3 miles from the Hermit Trailhead. That’s each way, by the way. The Dripping springs Trail continues past the springs and climbs back to the rim.)
To continue down the Hermit Trail, at least for a little while, turn right (north) and follow a cobblestone stairway through the Supai Formation past Santa Maria Spring. The wee hike down to the spring is not too difficult and provides some of the most outstanding view of this equally outstanding drainage (the Hermit Trail). Just beyond Santa Maria Spring, however, the trail descends through the rest of the Supai layer, which is not easy. So don’t go down that far. At the very least, hiking a bit of the Hermit Trail gives you a sense of being in the backcountry. It’s also not a highway, because no mules ply this trail. Thus, it’s less crowded compared to the BA and Kaibab trails. If it matters, there’s no trail spinach or dark green pea soup to step around (and hopefully not into such muck and mire)
The other suggestion for a tougher day hike is to east of Grand Canyon Village, called the Grandview Trail. You may recall this was actually the second tourist village gathering place before the railroad built its spur to present-day Grand Canyon Village. Pete Berry, one of the Grand Canyon’s more celebrated prospectors (next to John Hance, of course), built a fairly decent tent and board hotel in this locale. That was in 1895. Alas, only photographs remain, which are featured in an informative display at the trailhead. Below historic Grandview Point, down there on Horseshoe Mesa, remnants of the Last Chance Mine await visitors. If you like history, then you’ll enjoy what’s waiting at the end of this fairly short trail.
That’s the good news. The other part of the story is this 3-mile jaunt to the mesa is tough and rough. For one thing, the loss and gain of elevation is 4,948 feet (each way). There’s no water on the trail and the only potty stop is on the mesa. Ergo, it’s kind of like being on a backcountry trail, maybe on par with the Hermit Trail, and one doesn’t tend to find too many hikers, but that’s also debatable. I mean, more people are coming to the canyon and hiking the trails than ever before. Thus during the high tourist season anything goes on any given day.
Of all the rim-to-river tails, the Grandview Trail is easily the least practical, if intending to go all the way to the bottom. Most hikers therefore use the trail to get to Horseshoe Mesa, than return to the rim. It’s steep in places. The view is also gorgeous, which means sometimes sacrificing steepness of an incline is worth the tramping effort.
So, once you visit the relics left over from the mining days, including a visit to the splendid Cave of the Domes (a solution cave, so-called, and suitable for those who don’t mind a bit of spelunking on their bellies, in places). Afterward, hikers head back to the top, usually panting. It’s part of the thrill, you see. Still others are determined to continue going deeper into the canyon, which is not recommended for an extended day hike. The spur to the east, and leading steeply off the mesa, leads to Hance Canyon, where a backcountry trail, the Hance, leads to the river or back to the rim. Hikers can also continue east toward the Tanner Trail. To the west of the mesa, another spurs drops down to Cottonwood Creek, thence to the Tonto Platform, where hikers can continue west toward the Kaibab Trail and all points west, or even vector north, to Phantom Ranch.
Regardless how far down the Grandview Trail you plan on hiking, remember to take a lot of water and munchies, because you’ll need it, even in the colder months. This trail truly replicates a backcountry hiking experience more than any other popular day hiking trails (again, like the BA or Kaibab on either side of the river).
This completes the basic trail hiking information. Again, for those interested in exploring other sectors of the canyon, it’s either all backcountry or primitive routes. These pathways also require sound experience before attempting to negotiate such conceivably difficult terrain. Park rangers will not give permits to those who do not meet strict standards, as proven hiking credentials. Even for hikers who are experienced in other terrain, here it comes to having experience in the Grand Canyon’s backcountry. Thus, those who meet the stringent requirements when hiking backcountry (or primitive) trails, also get the permits. The option, of course, is to get trail experience by hiking the BA or Kaibab trails. There's also a variety of trails along the South Rim, most of which are comparatively easier than those on the North Rim. O
Of course, given any Grand Canyon trail (for any level hiking rated) it's really all relative and contingent on one's stamina.
And so, DKos community, we come to the end of another trail, another armchair tour. There will be other scenic places to tour and more supplemental topics to read and think about, so stay tuned for a continuation in this series.
As always, your thoughtful commentaries are welcomed.
Rich
http://www.nmstarg.com/....
http://www.grandcanyon.org/....
FYI: For a list of all diaries posted to date, please see the growing inventory by clicking on my profile or by dialing in this URL:
http://www.dailykos.com/...
Note: If commenting on an older diary, please send an email to my profile account and I am sure to respond in a timely manner. Although all the diary material is extrapolated from a larger copyrighted main source (my own works-in-progress) feel free to “liberate” given anything that I have posted thus far. That being said, kindly site the original source. Gracias.
Photos used in diaries: Unless otherwise indicated, all photos posted in my diary series are “Fair Use” and strictly educational in purpose and intent. See “Attributed” slot for photo