I have been doing a very poor job at maintaining the continuity of effort expected of a TC diarist as of late. I have been weathering the quarantine in a sort of fugue state that pays no attention to the outside world. It’s just how I’m maintaining.
So I apologize to everyone keeping things running at Top Comments. Tonight I give you roasted chicken and a little gem of a movie by way of apology.
But first, a word from our sponsors ...
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I will give you a snippet of the movie and then opine on the proper roasting of a chicken. It is common knowledge among great cooks that we evaluate each other by the simplest of techniques. Among this group, the roasting of a chicken is the ultimate, tie breaking determinant of who is a better cook. Granted, it is a very french tradition but it is one I stick to. Along with my taste for a good cassoulet.
In Julia Child’s great recipe collection is my ultimate delight from her oeuvre, roasted Thanksgiving turkey. Recipe step 1: roast one chicken. So, I guess a recipe should start with a list of ingredients. It’s how things are done.
INGREDIENTS (basic roast chicken)
raw, whole chicken one
Vidalia or other sweet onion, ½ inch slices 4-5 onions in total
carrots, ½ inch slices 3-4 carrots in total
thyme sprigs 1 bunch
sea salt, fresh ground black pepper to taste
2 lengths of butchers twine
Trussing the Bird
I really wish I had a picture of my trussing method, perhaps at a later date. Instead I shall discuss the goal of trussing as the particular method doesn’t matter as much as achieving the purpose of the exercise. For the record, I employ a Japanese lashing style that folds the rope in half and works from tying a central point of the bird with the folded middle of the twine. The loose ends can then be used either separately or together to secure the bird for roasting.
Anyway, trussing methods in the US are as varied as the traditions from which our great cooks have emerged. I would wager that anyone who judges a cook’s skill based on the roasted chicken has their own preferred trussing method. I would further expect that all of them are trussing for the same purpose, achieving an even level of cooking to ensure that light and dark meat finish at similar rates.
Here’s the thing. Sure, you can cook a chicken without tying it and the meats will cook at similar rates. But as you graduate to bigger birds, like the Thanksgiving turkey, solid understanding of trussing methods can mean the difference between a good bird and a great one. The kind of centerpiece that can make a dinner truly memorable.
So, how then, do you truss a bird? First, an anatomy lesson.
Quick Chicken Anatomy
The chicken walks on two legs with it’s breast pushed forward. The back is usually arched. In addition, there are wings that work much like human arms if the wrist and shoulder were connected by a section of tendon and skin. Isolating each of these parts and trussing them in optimal places for even cooking is the true secret to the roasted bird. In my humble opinion.
So, this is the preferred isolation procedure. Bring the ankles into contact with each other. Think about applying a clean diaper as you maneuver the bird into this position. Tie the ankles together like they do in the movies. Whatever method works for you is the right one.
Bend the legs at the knee so that the knee joint is at a right angle. Use the twine to hold this flex as the bird cooks. I prefer to anchor them to the tailbone. This also allows the fat and tendon around the tip to roast into a tasty little treat.
At this point, you can either use another piece of twine or the remaining length to get the back arched and the breast pushed forward like Kate Winslet in Titanic. The wings should be secured with the joints extended and supporting the breast from below like a good underwire.
Finally, we get to the oven
You need a roasting pan, some oil and the ingredients from the list above. Toss the vegetables in oil and season. Add the thyme and place the bird on top, breast up.
I like to play with the oven temperature a bit. I place the bird into the hottest oven I can safely achieve. 400 degrees will suffice. 500 or more is preferred. As soon as you pace the bird in the oven, lower the temperature to 325 degrees. Let it roast without opening the oven too many times for an hour or more.
When the internal temperature of the bird reaches 140 or 145 degrees I like to turn up the oven to 400 or 425 degrees. This should finish off the roasting process in 10 or fifteen minutes. It allows the fat to crisp up and achieves the best texture of the skin on breasts and thighs.
To baste or not? Experiment with both and find a method that fits your taste and preference.
Finally, let the bird rest for ten minutes on a cutting board before cutting it up. In the meantime, strain the roasting pan and reduce the juice to make a nice sauce for your bird. I prefer reduction and butter but a more traditional, roux based gravy would also work.
Anyway, on to the Tops
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TOP COMMENTS
from gizmo59:
I'll nominate this comment by Champurrado, from my TC diary last night, that made me LOL.
from Denise Oliver Velez:
Slooterdamnation describes traveling to Brazil with Ray Charles, and some of the musicians they encountered.
jazzmaniac talks about having catastrophic heart valve failure - and the impact of music afterwards
TOP MOJO
Top Mojo for yesterday, May 2, 2020, first comments and tip jars excluded. Thank you mik for the mojo magic! For those of you interested in How Top Mojo Works, please see his diary on FAQing Top Mojo.
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