I'll never forget how impressed I was the first time I was served a dish "en papillote." The parchment was beautifully golden brown and puffed. The aroma I enjoyed when I slit the pouch open was incredible. And even today, the thought of the tasty, tender vegetables and fish inside makes my mouth water.
For years I combed menus ordering dishes baked in parchment whenever I could. "En papillote" (pronounced poppy yote) is a cooking technique where food gently steams in its own juices inside a parchment packet while baking in the oven. Aromatics such as herbs, vegetables, lemon and wine are added for flavor as well. There's no need to add fat, so it's very healthy.
It never dawned on me to try it at home. For years I assumed it would be hard to do. It turns out that nothing could be further from the truth.
Almost 20 years after first eating that perfectly cooked pompano, I attended a cooking demonstration by the same chef, Shelley Caughey Adams of Ann Arbor's The Earle Restaurant, who prepared my first "en papillote." Ironically, she showed me, and my fellow "classmates," that evening how easy it really is to replicate this technique in our own kitchens. And, it's quick!
When the packets are heated, steam builds up inside and cooks the contents. French chefs have been dazzling customers with food prepared this way for years. Typically, one serving is enclosed in each packet. Your signal that the cooking is complete is a nice golden, puffy packet. The chef, or you at home, then places the cooked packet on a serving plate, allowing each guest to "open their own" and smell the fresh-cooked dish as the steam bursts out. The effect is dramatic - much like bringing a souffle to the table.
Parchment is manufactured by running sheets of paper through a sulfuric acid bath. This makes it super strong. It stays that way even when wet or hot and it will not absorb moisture or grease. It's typically packaged on a tube, like wax paper or aluminum foil, and can be purchased at most grocery stores and places selling kitchen gadgets such as Bed Bath and Beyond.
To make the pouch, cut a 12-15" square of parchment. Next, fold it in half and trim it to resemble a heart shape. Place the ingredients in the center along the crease. Fold and crimp the outside edges to create a packet, or pouch.
The folding technique requires a little practice, but it's worth the effort. Sunday Supper has a great step-by-step with how-to pictures, explanations and recipes, as does Cooking Light. Remember to make little folds and press each fold firmly down with your fingers, and you'll be a master in no time.
And, a word on how cooking in parchment compares to cooking with foil - both methods gently steam the food, but you need to be careful not to use a lot of acidic ingredients such as tomatoes, lemon or wine when using foil. When acid comes in contact with foil you get a chemical reaction that can result in an unpleasant taste. The food in the foil will cook more quickly, but it won't puff up in that pretty and dramatic way that parchment does.
Be sure to remember that this technique works nicely for any course – from starters to desserts. The packets, or bundles, can be assembled ahead of time and stored on a flat surface in the refrigerator – just remember to take them out about 20 minutes before baking. I frequently prepare side dishes using this cooking method. "Get as much as you can off the stove top and into the oven" is sage advice that comes courtesy of my brother-in-law, a CIA graduate.
"En papillote," which is derived from papillon, the French word for butterfly, is easy to put together; it's quick to cook; it's low-fat and healthy; and its presentation is elegant. Try it soon.
Tuna Steaks in Parchment
Ingredients:
4 tuna steaks (4-5 ounces, each)
1 medium onion, sliced thinly
1 carrot, cut in matchsticks
1 small zucchini, cut in matchsticks
2 tsp. chopped ginger
4 tbsp. white wine
1 lemon, sliced thinly
pinch of salt
dash of pepper
4 squares of parchment, trimmed into hearts
Method:
1) Heat the oven to 375 degrees.
2) Rinse the fish under water and pat dry.
3) Place the onion, carrot and zucchini in a bowl. Toss to combine.
4) Fold each parchment in half and place one fish steak against the fold, centered between top and bottom. Cover with vegetables.
5) Scatter 1/2 tsp. ginger, 1 tsb. wine, 1/4 of the lemon slices, salt and pepper over each.
6) Fold and seal the packets. Place them on a cookie sheet and bake for approximately 20-22 minutes, or until the packets puff up and start to turn color.
7) Remove from oven, place on serving dishes and allow each guest to open their own packet.
Serves 4.
Chicken with Herbs and Lemon
Ingredients:
3/4 cup chopped fresh herbs
2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced
3 whole boned chicken breasts, skinned and halved
salt and pepper
2 lemons
3 tablespoons sweet butter
6 pieces aluminum foil, each large enough to wrap a chicken breast like a sandwich
Method:
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Mix herbs and garlic together in a bowl.
3. Lightly pound or flatten the chicken, making the piece the same thickness all over. Arrange chicken pieces on foil strips. Season with salt and pepper. Spread one-sixth of the herb and garlic mixture on top.
4. Slice the lemons and place over the herbs. Dot with butter.
5. Fold up the packets (allowing a iittle room for steam to build around the chicken) and place on a baking sheet.
6. Bake for 30 minutes.
Serves 6.
Suggested herb combinations (in roughly equal amounts):
1) mint, dill, parsley
OR
2) basil, oregano, thyme
OR
3) tarragon, parsley, chives
If you don't have sweet butter you can use salted butter, but sprinkle the salt more sparingly in step 3.
Parchment Baked Carrots
Ingredients:
6 medium carrots
1 tsp. dried dill weed
2 T. butter
4 T. water
1 T. brown sugar (or to taste)
1 square of parchment, trimmed into a heart
Method:
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. Peel and cut the carrots into ¼" diagonal slices.
3. Fold the parchment in half and place the carrots on one side as close as possible to the crease.
4. Sprinkle on the dill weed and water, then dot with thin slices of butter. Sprinkle everything with brown sugar.
5. Fold and seal the parchment tightly. Place the package on a baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes.
Serves 4.
Care for some dessert this evening?
Baked Bananas with Chocolate
Ingredients:
4 ripe bananas
2 ounces finely grated semi-sweet chocolate squares
1 tablespoon finely grated coconut
1 tablespoon butter, very thinly sliced
4 squares of parchment, trimmed into hearts
Method:
1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees.
2. Peel and slice the bananas in half lengthwise.
3. Fold the parchment in half and lay two banana slices on one side of each sheet.
4. Top the bananas with grated chocolate and sprinkle with coconut. Put slivers of butter on top.
5. Fold and tightly seal each packet. Place on a baking sheet and place in the oven for 8 minutes.
6. Serve on individual serving plates, allowing each guest to open their own dessert.
Serves 4
Thanks for stopping by the What's for Dinner Cafe this evening. Pour yourself a beverage, put your feet and join the conversation. Tell us what you're having for dinner this evening and why you enjoyed it. Or, if you have a cullinary question we'll do our best to help you out.